Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and lively culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and carts – little-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their younger generation do not want to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to learn these stories and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.